Summer Cruising in Newfoundland

I spent last summer in Newfoundland. As always, I had a wonderful time, saw plenty of fantastic scenery and wildlife as well as loads of icebergs.

My most recent magazine article on Newfoundland was featured in PassageMaker Magazine in June 2018. It can be viewed online at the following link.

https://www.passagemaker.com/destinations/newfoundland-terra-nova

 

U.S. Vessels to Cuba & The 14 Day Ruling

Cienfuegos
Cienfuegos

Update on U.S. flagged boats going to Cuba. There has been no change. U.S. flagged vessels are still only granted a 14-day maximum stay in Cuba.

This is not a U.S. Coast Guard ruling but rather a U.S. Treasury Department ruling.

The following is excerpted from the U.S. Dept. of the Treasury Press Centre. It pertains to Vessels Traveling to Cuba. Read Bullet #3. There have been no updates on this since September 18th 2015.

Travel – 
  • Transportation by vessel of authorized travelers – between the United States and Cuba only and without stops in third countries – will be authorized by general license.  Certain related lodging services aboard vessels used for such travel will also be authorized.
  • License Exception Aircraft, Vessels, and Spacecraft (AVS) will authorize temporary sojourns to Cuba of certain categories of vessels.  Eligible categories of vessels are cargo vessels for hire for use in the transportation of items; passenger vessels for hire for use in the transportation of passengers and/or items; and recreational vessels that are used in connection with travel authorized by the Treasury.
  • License Exception AVS will authorize aircraft on temporary sojourn to remain in Cuba for up to 7 consecutive days and authorizes vessels on temporary sojourn to remain in Cuba for up to 14 consecutive days.

The full press release is here: https://www.treasury.gov/press-center/press-releases/Pages/jl0169.aspx

Boaters can, however, apply for an extension. Extensions have been granted for 30 to 180 days. Paperwork must be filed well in advance of the voyage.

On arrival boaters are granted a 30-day Cuban tourist visa which is renewable for an additional 30 days.

 

Americans aboard vessels going to Cuba must still come under one of the 12 OFAC (Office of the Foreign Assets Control) authorized categories. Tourism is not a category. The catch all is still the People-to-People Exchange — see the first category in the list below.

The 12 Categories are:

  • Educational activities in Cuba for schools, including People-to-People Exchanges open to everyone
  • Professional research and professional meetings in Cuba
  • Public performances, clinics, workshops, athletic and other competitions, and exhibitions in Cuba
  • Religious activities in Cuba
  • Humanitarian projects in Cuba
  • Journalistic activities in Cuba
  • Family visits to close relatives in Cuba
  • Activities in Cuba by private foundations, or research or educational institutes
  • Any type of support for the Cuban people
  • Exportation, importation, or transmission of information technologies or materials
  • Certain authorized export transactions including agricultural and medical products, and tools, equipment and construction supplies for private use
  • Official business of the US government, foreign governments, and certain intergovernmental organizations

If your travel falls within one of these categories you are automatically authorized to visit Cuba legally without having to apply for a license. There is no paperwork involved. You simply arrange travel and go.

Two things to note:   1) Only one person on the vessel must qualify. Understand that the qualified person must keep a log of daily activities in Cuba to show that the requirements of the “exchange” have been carried out. Log where you went each day, who you met and what you achieved. Your log must be retained for 5 years.

2) The U.S. Dept. of Homeland Security still requires boaters to file form CG 3300 which asked for your OFAC License Number. As stated above, a License Number is no longer given.

Here are links to the Homeland Security CG3300 form and instructions

http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg6/cg611/COI/omb/1625-0106.pdf

http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/cg531/CG3300.pdf

In question #4 where it asked for the OFAC license number for this voyage I suggest putting “People-to-People Exchange” (or whichever OFAC category that you come under) in place of License Number.

Finally, U.S. flagged vessels cannot return to the USA from Cuba via a third country such as the Bahamas. In the Treasury Dept section on TRAVEL (see above) read the first bullet of the ruling.

As of August 15th 2016, American issued credit cards are still not accepted in Cuba and non-charter flights have not started.

The following Check List was created by Addison Chan Sept. 1/16. It’s a quick view to the paperwork, forms and legal documents currently required by any boater planning a voyage to Cuba. BIS (Bureau of Industry and Security) comes under the U.S. Dept. of Commerce. The export permit is only required by U.S. registered vessels that will be in Cuba more than 14 days.

 

Podcast Interview –Preparing for Voyage

posted in: Blog, Media & Links | 0
Playa Sirena, Cayo Largo
Playa Sirena, Cayo Largo
I did a recent online interview with Linus Wilson (Slowboat to Bahamas) who was preparing for his trip to Cuba en route to the Western Caribbean. You can hear the interview by following the link to his podcast which he upload while on his boat in Cuba. The segment is about 40 mins total but the actual interview with me is closer to 30 mins.

PRACTICAL SAILOR (MAY 2016)

This is an excerpt from PRACTICAL SAILOR—from their reviews of cruising guides for Cuba.

Cuba-Book-cover

…”with tips on everything from where to find fresh-baked bread to making windward progress along the coast, Barr’s book [Cruising Guide to Cuba] is about as good a combination navigation/travel guide as you will find for cruising. The publication is well-balanced, with more emphasis on well-rendered chartlets than glossy photos…”

I was pleased with this review and I think you will be pleased to have a copy of my guide on board for the voyage.

Practical Sailor Cuba Book Review

Cuba Guide Book Review

Where to go with only 14 days in Cuba

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Band
Traditional Cuban street band

I’ve been asked by American sailors recently where they can go with only a 14-day visit to Cuba–keeping in mind that right now, 14 days is the maximum legal time allowed for an American boat to be in Cuba.

My recommendation for a 14-day trip to Cuba would be this: Clear in at Marina Hemingway. The marina is only 10 miles west of Havana and ideally situated to explore Cuba’s fascinating capitol city. The reason I do not recommend Marina Gaviota Varadero as your Port of Entry is because it is far from anything you will want to see with your limited time…better to jump right in and start in Havana.

Mogotes in Pinar del Rio

I would expect most visitors will want at least 3 to 5 days in Havana which is easily accessed by taxi. The cheap way is  to hail an old American classic on 5th Ave (in front of the marina). The oldies accept pesos national rather than the hard currency called a Cuban Convertible peso (CuC). A CuC is pegged to the US dollar. Take the cab to Playa (10 pesos). At Playa change cabs for Old Havana (25 pesos). Your total cost is about 35 pesos or roughly $1.50 CuC. Going back to the marina after a long hot day wandering Havana, I find it easier to just hop in cab downtown and go straight back to the boat. This is more expensive but quicker. The price is about $12-15 CuC.

When you’re finally saturated with Havana, plan an overland trip into Pinar del Rio province, the westernmost part of Cuba. Definitely spend at least 1 night away from the boat. This is the land of tobacco and mogotes (oddly-shaped little mountains). There are loads of B&B’s in the town of Vinales (recent estimate say about 1000) It will be a memorable Cuban experience. To get there you can hire a car (not cheap) and head out on your own. This will allow you to see more of the country-side. A much cheaper way to go is to take the bus from the bus terminal in Havana. Bus fare is about $15 CuC o/w. Plan to spend a night or two in Vinales. The price of B&B’s in Cuba is government regulated so a room here will be $25 CuC but you may get one for less.

Beach Bar at Cayo Levisa
Beach Bar at Cayo Levisa

Breakfast these days is about $6 CuC. Dinner in a local eatery can be had for a few pesos or up to $30 CuC for essentially the same meal. The best bet is to have a dinner made by your hosts at their house ($8-10 CuC).

When your return to the boat and winds are prevailing easterly, leave Havana for Bahia Honda. It’s just a day sail. There is no longer a Guarda Frontera check point at Honda. Anchor just for the night then make another day sail westward to Cayo Levisa. It’s a good anchorage with a pretty mountain backdrop and access to the beach and restaurant–I would be inclined to spend a little “rest up” time here at this hangout. It will come as a welcome break from the action you’ve had ashore. There is Guarda Frontera at Levisa so you will need to present your cruising permit.

Levisa isn’t a port of entry, however, I would see if they will let you leave from here. Remember that the fee you paid on entering Cuba was $55 CuC and it covered entry/exit/cruising permit. So it makes sense to be able to leave…but of course this is Cuba where you will find little makes sense. If you can leave from Levisa, then cross to the Dry Tortugas or the Florida Keys. If you don’t leave from Cayo Levisa then you will have to go back to Marina Hemingway to clear out.

Happy Cruising!

Recent Change. Last month the Cuban government removed the 10% surcharge placed on exchanging US dollars. I’m sure there will be more good news to come. The bad news, prices are going up all the time.

2016 Expedition

posted in: Blog, Cruising in Cuba | 0
Cheryl-with-Whitehawk-WEB
Whitehawk at Marina Gaviota Varadero

This year I had the opportunity to join the 105-foot classic American yacht Whitehawk for her voyage in Cuba.

For those not familiar with Whitehawk, she is a cold-moulded centre-board ketch drawing 8 feet with board up. Eight feet is deep for Cuba and, in the case of Whitehawk, the propeller is the deepest part of the keel so extra care must be taken to assure its safety. The ample varnish on Whitehawk is positively dazzling. Her port and starboard bronze taffrail dolphins (Benny and Ulysses) gleam against the Caribbean blue water. Her relatively new sails (the rig was completely reconstructed with newly designed sails) are bright white and haul the vessel along at an average clip of 9.5 knots. Hoisting sail and tacking is easy as everything is push button electric…luxury. The beautifully crafted steering pedestal has a large wheel and she is easy to steer…a really sweet ride.

Whitehawk typically winters in Antigua where she races in the spring classics but this year was different. Cuba was in her sights and although they had my Cuba cruising guide the owner felt it best to go right to the source and have me on board to assist the captain with routes, anchorages and weather as well as arrange shore-side activities to get the full Cuban experience.

The emphasis of this post is to bring the reader up-to-date with changes occurring in Cuba now that the relationship with the USA is changing and Americans can legally go to Cuba.

Whitehawk at Anchor
Whitehawk at Anchor

The first thing I noticed was the increased number of yachts both big and small cruising the south coast. Although the big yachts (over 230 ft) were foreign flagged there was no question they were American. The smaller yachts included US flagged vessels but the vast majority were German and French. There is a definite push among Europeans to visit Cuba now in order to see Cuba “before the Americans get there”. As a result, the most commonly used anchorages on the south coast are no longer empty.

With the changing relationship there is a pronounced change in pricing. Costs have shot up. One big increase is the cost of a Tourist Visa for those arriving by boat. Your 1-month visa has gone from $25CuC/person to $75CuC. Marina rates have also been affected. On the north coast, at Varadero, dockage rates have almost tripled and others facilities have gone up about 20 percent (for now). But with the increase in prices there is no improvement to the shower/toilet facilities. The actual slips are no better either. For example, at Marina Hemingway care must be taken due to large obstructions that jut from the cement walls. Docks at the new Marina Gaviota Varadero med-mooring is de rigueur as there is very limited space for side tying. Side tying at this marina is length restricted because the new floating piers have metal protrusions around each piling.

Marina Darsena Varadero is still closed as a Port of Entry. Vessels can only enter this marina if the boat has been in Cuba a minimum of 30 days. I heard prices are going up here too and yet the amenities are still in dreadful condition.

I was surprised to see that some paladars (privately-run restaurants) in Cienfuegos are now charging “a la cart”. this means each additional item – rice, beans, salad etc. are billed in addition to the protein portion of the dinner. In these restaurants the pork started at $14CuC. By checking around, it was possible to find better prices and even some peso paladars.

The number of casa particulars (bed and breakfasts) has dramatically increased. Happily the rates, set by the government, remain the same (for now). In Havana, a room is still $35CuC/night while in the country and small cities the price is $15 to $25. The skyline of Havana looks different these days, too, Tall cranes never seen before are in place to aid with rebuilding and reconstructing old buildings to make new, big hotels. In Vinales (a lovely small town in the western tobacco region) this spring the police had to go door-to-door inquiring if any of the now 700 casas could take in extra guests as 40 tourists were left to sleep in the open in the park. The situation was similar in the high-traffic tourist locations—those within a 4 or 5-hour drive of Havana.

Castillo-Jagua
Castillo Jagua, Cienfuegos Entrance

Getting a taxi was another issue. Many drivers only wanted to take the short trips to the standard tourist venues and would greatly overcharge for these trips. I told several travellers that they were overpaying. The retort was that they knew they were being charged more but they didn’t mind. As a result, prices keep climbing—and will until these folks baulk at the price. The reason they don’t mind paying a lot more is because their stay in Cuba is short (on average 7 to 10 days) and everything to them is new and novel and worth the additional cost. This is having adverse affects on the local economy.

Cuban’s running a paladar, taxi or casa as well as those receiving remittance money from Cubans living off-island are paying very high taxes to the government but they have some cash left to spend. The situation, therefore, has called for well-stocked shop shelves as a way for the government to access their remaining dollars. In Havana, there are many more stores as well as chic boutiques. This new retail therapy seems to be a win-win for the government and the Cuban people who have money. Marine supplies and parts are still non-existent so cruisers must arrive in Cuba with all marine essentials.

Last year the Cuban cartography department (GeoCuba) was updating the Cuban chart kits. We actually saw a GeoCuba vessel at Marina Hemingway. While in Cuba this year, I had the chance to look through their 4 new chart kits. They are laid out in the same fashion as the NV-Chart kits for Cuba (regions 10.1, 10.2, 10.3 and 10.4) and I could not find any new details that have not already been incorporated into the NV-Charts. The only difference is that the Cuban kits have added a few pages at the back of each kit with copies of Nigel Caulder’s chart diagrams from his Cuba cruising guide 1997. I do not believe the Cuban chart kits are worth $250USD per kit.

What frustrated me the most this time was the ineptitude of the Guarda Frontera. In the past, the Guarda official, at any given location, could be counted on to show up quite promptly for signing boats in and were even more prompt at the time of check out. This year at Trinidad/Casilda, for example, we waited in the marina compound for hours. The marina security guard would not allow us to leave the compound without having checked in. In the end we gave up hopes of going into Trinidad that day and went back to the boat leaving the captain ashore for the eventual arrival of the official. Part of the problem is that there is no longer a dockmaster or Guarda Frontera on-site at Marina Trinidad. Departing the following day was no better. In the end (after waiting 3 hours) we decided to take the dinghy directly to the Guarda Frontera station at Casilda–this is a total break with protocol but there was little we could do as time was pressing on to make the next anchorage before dark. At the Guarda station there were at least 8 officials milling around (with a jeep) but none of them could find the time or had the inclination to drive 15 minutes to the marina to complete the mandatory check out procedure. We were not the only boat that required checking in/out.

Old-Taxi-Trinidad
Taxi to Trinidad

There is good news regarding communication. There is now wifi at most marinas and also in more hotels. Hot spots in the cities are increasing too but the intended use is for locals as they can not have Internet at home. A hot spot is obvious as there is always a large crowd. North American cell phones, particularly those with a Verizon package, where able to make calls from Cuba. Note, however, the calls, both sending and receiving were costly. Check with your provider before going to Cuba as to per minute charges and additional charges.

It was a pleasure to find far few mosquitoes this year compared to all previous years of cruising. There is now a program for fogging to reduce mosquitoes. This program has been brought about by the zika virus which is most pronounced in Brazil.

Update from Cheryl – Cruising in March

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Hello Cuba Cruiser,

I am headed to the south coast of Cuba for the month of March. The focus of the voyage is
the area between Cienfuegos and Santiago de Cuba with pasisng through the Jardines de la Reina.
This voyage will complete the research for Cruising Cuba Volume 2. When I get home I’ll be
concentrating on getting the book into print.
Upon my return I will post my 2016 Expedition.