Provisioning the boat for a Voyage to Cuba and Dining and staying ashore
For any voyage to Cuba it is essential that you have a well-provisioned vessel. Cuba is off-the-beaten- path despite being only 90 nm from the United States. It is best to assume that nothing will be available to you in Cuba this way, any food or grocery items that you do obtain will be a welcome bonus. When cruising, much of the time you will be anchored in bays where there is no habitation so you must be
prepared. What you can expect to find in Cuba is an abundance of fresh seafood whether caught by you or procured through trade with local fishermen.
Stock up with bottled and canned goods: ham, chicken, fruit and vegetables, soups, sauces, mayo, jam, peanut butter, UHT milk. Tinned ham and chicken make a change from a daily diet of rich lobster and grilled fish. Take packaged dried goods: rice, a variety of beans, pasta, flour, powdered milk, tea and
coffee, yeast, spices, hot and cold cereals, cake mixes, fruit/nuts, chips, cookies, crackers. Rice and
beans are rationed items and there is not enough to go around. Cubans must supplement these staples
buy purchasing them on the black market. Don’t forget chocolates, gum and candies, etc.—wonderful for the sweet tooth cruiser but also to give to the officials that come aboard and for the kids ashore.
Items that are hard to get in Cuba are: milk, butter, good bread, potatoes (though South American root
vegetables are nearly always found at the market). Sugar and coffee are also rationed items.
If you have a freezer then you will be able to purchase meat in Cuba—mainly chicken (frozen) and freshly butchered pork. Chicken is often available at ship chandleries and also some hard currency stores. Prices will be in Convertible Pesos (CuC). Fresh pork at the local market is always available and is very good. I learned the following from an Italian gentleman I met in Cuba. He told me “never purchase
fresh meat that doesn’t attract flies. If flies are absent, assume there is some sort of pesticide on the meat. Cubans probably couldn’t afford a can of “Raid” but I always keep this little gem of wisdom in
mind.
The ship chandler at Marina Hemingway often has fresh eggs. Stock up when available. Sometimes you will find eggs at the local markets too. They come in flats of 36 so I suggest bringing some empty 12 and
18-sized egg cartons and transfer the loose eggs into these for safe storage. A type of Gouda cheese can
be purchased at chandleries and in some supermarkets at fairly reasonable prices. Some supermarkets also stock Cuban cheese a.k.a. frying cheese at a good price-when available. Cuban cheese is very different to the cheeses we are used to. It is somewhat like very rubbery feta compressed into a block and if bought by the roadside can have a strong smoky flavour.
At the market you will only find fresh seasonal produce. Now that farmers are able to sell their produce
and retain a good percentage of the sales, the supply at the weekly markets has increased by leaps and
bounds. Unfortunately, there is still little if any shipment of product between provinces.
You will have no problem finding fresh tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, lettuce, onions, cabbage, carrots,
garlic, coriander, bananas, plantains, yams, malanga and other root vegetables, papayas, pineapple, mangos, guava, and watermelon.
You cannot over stock toiletries. What you don’t use you can always give away or use for bartering.
Since Cubans must spend what little money they have to supplement their food rations, they rarely have
money left over to buy toiletries. The elderly will approach you on the street or in bus stops asking for soap and toothpaste etc. Take plenty of: soap, toilet tissue, toothpaste and toothbrushes, disposable razors, laundry soap, shampoo and conditioner, Tylenol and or aspirin, cough-syrup, antihistamine creams for cuts etc., mosquito smoke coils and repellent, band-aids, hair colour…whatever you use take some of it with you. Popular gift items can include: nail polish, perfume and men’s cologne.
If you take any medications, have your doctor prescribe all that you will need for an extended vacation
as you will not be able get any medications in Cuba. In a medical emergency you will be taken to a tourist-only hospital. These hospitals are good and can handle any situation that may arise. Herbal
tinctures and remedies are commonly used in Cuba and are inexpensive. I particularly like Propoleos, a
tincture made from bee pollen. Good for all that ails you…this reportedly includes shingles.
Beer, rum and bottled water and colas are available throughout Cuba. Wine too but it is not cheap so
bring your own table wine. Fruit juices, in UHT boxes, are readily available but have become more
expensive. Most paladars (restaurants) will offer fresh, seasonal juices which are cheap and delicious.
On-site at most marinas there is a small grocery. These shops are not well stocked but prices tend to be
a little less expensive than in the main centres. Grocery stores in Havana and Varadero carry a selection of North American and European goods but these are expensive. It goes without saying that tobacco products are sold everywhere and are inexpensive.
Follow similar guidelines when stocking the boat with spare parts and marine supplies. Marine parts are
virtually non-existent in Cuba. Cuban mechanics are miracle workers but there is only so much one can
do with nothing. By now, you should have a good idea of what you need for a Cuba cruise.
Extra Tips
At local markets, use the Pesos Nacional but don’t convert too much, no more than a few CuC worth at a time. The $ symbol is the same for both CuCs and Pesos. In 2015, the exchange rate was 1 CUC for 24 Pesos. Note: There is talk of reverting back to a single currency.
Take your own shopping bags to the market. You cannot count on the vendor having them.It is handy to have a bicycle if staying in one location for any length of time. Have a carrier to bring your purchases back to the boat. (Don’t forget the bags)
If dining out, go to a Paladar (a privately owned and operated restaurant) rather than eat at a government-run eatery. The prices are roughly the same but what you get at a paladar will be much better. A good meal at a hard currency paladar will cost $4-8 CuC, drinks not included. If you can find a local peso paladar a meal with a juice will cost the equivalent of $1-2 CuC.
If staying ashore, stay in a casa particular (now called a hostel). A blue upside down anchor painted on or by the door indicates rooms are rented to tourists. In the cities, the standard price for a room/night is $35 CuC. In the country, the price is cheaper, typically $25 CuC. These rates are set by the government.
If your hostess offers a meal at night ($6-8 CuC/person) I suggest taking your meal at the house the food will be absolutely worth it. Breakfast is not included in the room fee but for $3-4CuC/person they will make you a good breakfast.