Summer Cruising in Newfoundland

I spent last summer in Newfoundland. As always, I had a wonderful time, saw plenty of fantastic scenery and wildlife as well as loads of icebergs.

My most recent magazine article on Newfoundland was featured in PassageMaker Magazine in June 2018. It can be viewed online at the following link.

https://www.passagemaker.com/destinations/newfoundland-terra-nova

 

Going Down East

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Chester Village on Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia
Chester Village on Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia

The expression “Down East” was coined in the 1800s by the navigators on square-rigged ships, in particular the clipper ships working the cargo trade between Europe and Australia. The full expression was, “running the easting down” and it applied to the homeward bound, down wind run from the Pacific. Ships loading grain in Adelaide, Australia had to make easting from roughly 140°E to nearly 0° at London, England, hence “running the easting down”. After the era of fast clippers, large bulky square-riggers transported the cargo and they became known as Down Easters. Today the term Down East refers to places situated east of New York and Boston and it is used synonymously with Maine. But, the Down East Circle Route runs the easting down from approximately 74°W at New York City to nearly 60°W in the Bras d’Or Lakes, much farther east than Maine and truly off-the-beaten-path.

There has always been reluctance by the cruising community to go very far Down East because of the widespread misconception of the difficulty in getting there. The unfortunate result is that it is considered off limits to many. It is true that the area has impressive tides and its reputation for frequent drizzle and pea soup fog is not unfound. But the fact is, cruising Nova Scotia in August and September is ideal as the days are warm and fog is at a minimum. By contrast, June is too cold and foggy and often little change through mid-July. In reading this guide, you will see that the Down East Circle Route not only offsets the negatives of getting Down East it increases the reasons for going—it really is “the most logical way down east”.

The Down East Circle Route follows the prevailing fair weather taking you to the high latitudes (49°N) in early summer and then getting you down east (60°W) by late summer. On the cruise you will pass beautiful scenery, see lots of wildlife, visit vibrant French cities and quaint seaside villages. There is just so much to see that an experienced or unseasoned mariner, in virtually any type of yacht, could spend many summers and still not experience it all. No other North American cruise can say the same.

This book is one of a kind and will be the most valuable cruising guide on the shelf of every yachtsman interested in “running the easting down” to Nova Scotia. To keep this cruising guide current we welcome your comments, suggestions and notice of any significant errors in this publication. Also, let us know what you would like to find in future editions of Yacht Pilot’s Cruising Guide to the Down East Circle Route. Please send your comments to us by E-mail, snail mail or telephone. Don’t hold back, we want to hear from you.

DOWN EAST CIRCLE ROUTE – FAQ’S

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Down East Circle Route in Red. Optional Routes in Green.
Down East Circle Route in Red. Optional Routes in Green.

1) How long is the Down East Circle Route?

The total distance from New York City back to NYC, including a few short side trips, is 2400 nm. Therefore, this loop route is perfect for a 3-month summer cruise.

2) When is the best time to set out on this route?

Early to mid-June is the best time to head up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal. At this time of year water levels are high but not too high and traffic on the canal is fairly quiet.

3) Are there many marinas and fueling facilities along this loop route?

Yes, transient cruisers can dock every night if they want to. In fact in areas of strong current docking is the recommended option. Facilities along the route are most often situated in towns and villages where all supplies and services are available. Dockage rates in Canada are very reasonable compared to summer dockage in New England which range anywhere from $2 to $10 per foot per night. The most expensive
dockage in Canada will be in the heart of the cities at the city marinas, at the time of printing none were over $2 per foot (CDN) for yachts under 60 feet. As a general guide, expect to pay about $0.50 per foot per night. As for fuel, it is available almost everywhere along the route from a fuel pump. However, if a pump isn’t available fueling can easily be arranged by truck.

4) What kind of weather can I expect?

As much of this loop route is through an inland waterway you should expect hot and probably humid conditions from NYC through to Montréal and Québec City. Beyond Québec City weather conditions are
much cooler with low humidity. Low pressure systems tend to track north of the St Lawrence River during
the summer therefore, the prevailing fair weather wind pattern is westerly. A shift in this wind direction can produce rain. Fog is possible on the St Lawrence River around Tadoussac and along the Gaspé coast. Fog and rainy conditions along the Atlantic coast are more frequent during June and July. Mid-August through the end of September are ideal times to cruise Nova Scotia and the Maine coast when the prevailing wind shifts to a more westerly and even nor-westerly direction which blows the fog well
offshore.

5) Should I be concerned about the locks on the St Lawrence Seaway?

The beauty of the Down East Circle Route is that the seven seaway locks are all going to be locked downward. Down locking through the seaway is easy. The locks drain from the center so a boat is gently
pulled away from the wall of the lock; this is a quick and simple procedure. Up locking through the seaway can be a much more difficult passage for a small boat as the turbulence can be horrendous. The Erie Canal locks are small by comparison and turbulence isn’t really a factor.

6) What are the height and depth restrictions for this route?

The height and depth restrictions apply only on the Erie Canal where you are restricted to a vertical
clearance of 20 feet and a depth restriction of 14 feet. This is the depth of the locks at the sills. If going via Lake Champlain the vertical clearance restriction is 15.5 feet and a 12-foot clearance at the lock sills. By taking the Champlain route you will have bypassed the locks on the St Lawrence Seaway but will have missed some of the highlights of the Down East Circle Route, places such as the Thousand Islands, Kingston and Montréal.

7) How remote is this loop?

It is actually not remote at all. There are marine facilities and fuel available the entire way, airports are situated at regular intervals and most towns will have a car rental agency. By car the U.S. border is less than a days drive away from any point along the route. Most places that you will stop for the night will have at least one grocery store where you can reprovision. Many of the towns visited along the route have weekly farmers’ markets where you can stock up on locally grown farm produce.

8) Do I need to speak French?

Most people in the Province of Québec speak English especially in the larger centers. In a few of the
small Québec villages situated along the St Lawrence River you will find that very little English is spoken. This should not pose a problem as areas such as these are few. If you don’t speak a little french, you will most certainly get by with a little creative sign language.

9) Can I take my firearms into Canada?

No, do not bring firearms with you. Firearms must be declared to customs and will be held at the port of
entry until you return; remember that this circle route does not take you back through your original port of entry. If you do not declare your firearms and they are found to be on board, the fine is steep. Traveling through Canada is very safe and firearms are completely unnecessary.

10) How does this route compare to the Great Loop cruise?

This loop route is much easier and the time commitment is much shorter. Only one summer season is
needed to complete this cruise compared to about a year needed to complete the Great Loop route. The
Down East loop route has scenery that is more dramatic than the Great Loop cruise and there is much
more wildlife to see. In comparison to portions of the Great Loop cruise there is little commercial traffic to contend with. Also, this cruise takes you through areas of great historical importance-events occurred along this route that changed the face of North America forever.

11) What kind of boat do I need to make this trip?

Any vessel that can travel the Intra-coastal waterway and cross to the Bahamas is certainly adequate for
this summer cruise. The majority of this loop route is inland waters with the Atlantic coast portion of the trip done in easy daytime hops. An offshore passage back to Maine is entirely optional and not at all necessary as Nova Scotia to Maine can also be completed in daytime, coastal hops.

Canadian Maritimes and the Down East Circle Route

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South Coast Newfoundland
South Coast Newfoundland

One of the most remarkable cruising grounds on the east coast of North America is Atlantic Canada. To get there follow the Down East Circle Route and then spend some time exploring the Canadian Maritimes. The Down East Circle Route is a 2,400 nautical mile, clockwise loop route that begins with the Erie Barge Canal in New York State. It continues into Lake Ontario, the St. Lawrence River and Seaway and into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. From the gulf, one has many cruising options: southern Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island and coastal New Brunswick, the wonderful Bras d’Or Lakes on Cape Breton Island and mainland Nova Scotia.

Whether you have six weeks or the entire summer, whether your boat is a rugged offshore vessel or a light coastal cruiser, the Down East Circle Route is for you. Set your course for the Canadian Maritimes via the spectacular Down East Circle Route—it’s the most logical way to take your boat down east.

Back at home, friends and family will enjoy tales of dramatic fjords, white whales, seabirds too numerous to count, the joie de vivre of Québec’s French culture and cuisine, historic cities and warm Maritime hospitality, of dining on fresh seafood such as shrimp, snow crab and lobster and delicious French pastries, breads and specialty meats. There is no other North American cruise that can boast such a blend of experiences.

Yacht Pilot cruising guides for the Down East Circle Route and the Canadian Maritimes provides cruising directions for yachtsmen seeking an adventure and the rewards that the most beautiful and unspoiled cruising ground on the eastern seaboard of North America has to offer. More specifically, the guides provide the small boat skipper with sailing directions for easy passages by providing pertinent information on navigation, playing the currents and the weather patterns. It gives information on marinas and anchorages, points of interest and where to find supplies and services.

The information contained in our comprehensive cruising guides has been collected and compiled by the most knowledgeable people in the marine industry in eastern Canada. We are always on the water and we look forward to seeing you Down East.

We Call It The Rock

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South Coast Newfoundland
South Coast Newfoundland

Newfoundland, We Call It “The Rock”
Contrary to popular beliefs among those who cruise the Northeast, there is no planetary void at the easternmost edge of Maine. Join me on a cruise way Down East, beyond Maine, beyond Nova Scotia to a whole new world. Shrouded in mystery, southern Newfoundland is a place virtually undiscovered. Yet, to any mariner willing to cross from Maine to the spectacular Canadian Maritimes, it has much to offer within a vast network of fjords and unrivaled scenery.

Some attributes that make Newfoundland’s south coast a cruising destination unlike any other on the east coast of North America are its colorful out-port villages (tiny, isolated communities without road access), impressive fjords, and stunning anchorages. Popular misconceptions have led many boaters to believe that only old salts in heavy, sea-going vessels should attempt a voyage north of latitude 44°.

Most myths that surround this region are unfounded and it wouldn’t surprise me to find that Nova Scotians and Newfoundlanders themselves have spread rumors of cold, foggy Maritime summers, ice bound coasts and blustery winds just to keep the unspoiled harbors and anchorages to themselves.

Myth: Newfoundland is wintry even in the summer with icebergs creating navigational hazards.
Fact: Icebergs never reach the south coast of Newfoundland. In August the water temperature is approximately 65°F and temperatures on shore range from 70 to 80°F. Icebergs, calved in
Greenland, have melted long before reaching the south coast.

Myth: Newfoundland, like Nova Scotia, is perpetually shrouded in fog.
Fact: In August the sea breeze is light and often reduced to calms along the south coast resulting in a warm air mass over inshore waters. As a result, fog moves away from the coast. Also, tides and currents are negligible so expect navigation, using radar and GPS, to be quite simple.

Another fact Maritimers keep secret is that summer arrives late to both Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. August and early September is the best time to cruise the region.

Myth: Newfoundland is too far north, out-of-the-way and has little to offer as a cruising
Fact: To circumnavigate the island of Newfoundland in one season is definitely a push. The island’s south coast, however, lies just above the 47th parallel (less than 200 nautical miles
northing from Schoodic Point, Maine) and is very accessible. In addition to isolated out-ports and stunning fjord anchorages there are hiking trails with amazing vistas, white sand beaches, French islands where one can gorge on great foods and fine wines and you will meet some amazing people.